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Checking the edges

In this case, a gap exists between the base and the metal protection on the tip.

Checking the edges

#08 Natures's Will

April 25, 2014
in Technique
Reading Time: 5 mins read
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Checking the edges on a Brand New Splitboard

In this section, my will is to help you read between the lines, to provide you with the necessary tools to be able to judge by yourself and decide what’s relevant, to throw a light in the big mess of information overflow generated around snowboarding and splitboarding. My aim is to help by giving you information and techniques to stay on top of the marketing b**ls**t and let your rider instinct flow in the white gold provided by Mother Nature.

On the next pages, you will understand the importance of inspecting a brand new splitboard before shedding the cash, and how to do it properly.

This picture shows a discontinuous metal edge, there’s a gap between both edge ends.

The detail shows the distance between both edges.

The following pictures show two variations of the same problem.

A construction error where edges meet. The difference between both edges of the same board is obvious.

This construction error may have serious consequences: first, the affected area will be considerably weaker, and in the case of collision against a rock or a strong impact, the result can be delamination of the board and the bending of the edge, making it complicated to bring it back to its original position when repairing it. On the other hand, the board will logically lose its factory tension. This is the memory of the board’s strength as a whole, all the elements which compose a correctly assembled board.

The particular elastic qualities of every component in the board, the way these components have been assembled, the humidity in the wood, the resins, the pressing process, the time and the type of cooling process after it has been pressed down, the subsequent storage and transport of the board, among other details, are the factors which condition the elastic qualities of a brand new board.

To continue with badly assembled parts and their consequences, the picture shows the thin gap line, which separates the base from the metal tip of the board.

In this case, a gap exists between the base and the metal protection on the tip.

The particular elastic qualities of every component in the board, the way these components have been assembled, the humidity in the wood, the resins, the pressing process, the time and the type of cooling process after it has been pressed down, the subsequent storage and transport of the board, among other details, are the factors which condition the elastic qualities of a brand new board.

The base and the metal should be in contact, fitting perfectly if both pieces have the precise shape and have been cut perfectly. On the same picture, if you look closely on the left side, there is a gap between the curved metal edge and the metal tip, which shouldn’t exist.

This is a different case, which resulted in delamination on a different area it’s just a logical consequence.

The consequences of not assembling the parts correctly, letting water leak in, can be serious.

If your splitboard already has any of the formerly shown imperfections, my suggestion is you round the edge –as I describe below- and the apply a resin based glue and a hardener, and then let it catalyze to seal the cavity area in order to avoid water from leaking in.

When choosing the right tools for this process, it is important to use file with fine teeth; a coarse file would be to abrasive and the aim here is just to round up and soften the edge vertex, not the whole thing. Thus, we’ll use fine files, which work in a single way.

It is important to clean the file’s teeth with a small brush, to avoid possible shavings, which could obstruct the file, helping it from functioning correctly.

Slide the file above the cutting area of the edge, steadily but softly in both directions, downwards vertically to press on the file, and horizontally to the sides.

The angle we use and how much pressure we apply on the file are the keys.

It is important to keep the pressure even. If we release the pressure, the file will tend to lift, leaving dent marks on the edge. It is preferable to repeat it several times applying a medium pressure, than applying a strong pressure a single time. The aim is not to rough down the edge but to round up its sharpest area. It is advisable to repeat this process on the curvy nose and tail areas, but most important is to do it on areas where you find imperfections as described above. Once the file work is done, use an abrasive rubber to even the imperfections. In this case, the rubber should be applied on the edge, horizontally along the previously rounded area. By doing so, the weak area on the edge will not erode the snow as much, and the cavities between parts will reduce the possible cutting forces in the case of impact against rocks or wood.

Take care & be safe.

www.elpetitmon.com

WORDS: Ricard Delmuns / Elena G. de Murillo | PHOTO COVER: Marc Sixto
Tags: Ricard DelmunsSnowman
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